Monthly Memo From Doi's Culinary Philosophy
Original text by Doi Yoshiharu
Translated by Yoshiko Fukuda
August- Hazuki
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Vacation season have arrived. How are the plans for this period turning out for everyone?
●Afterthoughts on my Trip to France
In my case, I usually book a round trip ticket, make a reservation at a little hotel at the Place Odeon that I always stay at during my visit to France, then hop on the plane. This is not only on special occasions but whenever I have some time off. Not planning out the visit to the tiniest detail, like what to do and where to visit, does not pose a problem since just the act of traveling to other places always brings in some excitement.
Surprisingly, the plane was not crowded when I visited France this summer. After I finally got settle down at my seat, my own sneeze disturbed my peace. I sensed people's eyes on me so I looked up, only to find a friendly French mother and daughter with a comforting nod that seemed to have implied "God bless you". Maybe it had to do with the fact that they were very attractive, but I was moved by the subtle kindness that they performed toward me, a complete stranger.
It actually is quite fascinating to observe different people at hectic restaurants where waiters and waitresses busily work and seats are filled with customers. A handsome gentleman who probably have finished a days work, awaits for his partner without getting seated. He pays careful attention to his surroundings and steps aside to a corner so he would not get in the way of the waiters. Standing on his tiptoes he looks with anticipation at the entrance. As I was wondering what kind of a person will arrive, a very beautiful lady who was indeed a great match for the gentleman came at last. He called for a waiter and asked for a seat. Then he escorted his wife, sat her down first then got seated himself. The man's personality got justly displayed through his manners and actions.
When seated at a table alone, people around always smiles at me or gives amiable glances. At a crowded restaurant where the tables are not spaced out and the other customers are situated very near, I fall upon a great chance of dining with wonderful people, whom I would not have had the opportunity of getting acquainted. It is their culture that one can have pleasant talks with his neighboring diners with ease.
Socializing probably takes roots as an aspect of western culture, designed to protect oneself living on a vast continent where it is impossible to know if the people around him is whether of good or bad nature. The French, because of their cultural superiority, have a haughty and cold impression. However, this is not even close to the truth. Of course they do not exhibit a smile wherever they go for no reason like some of us do. If they are busy they do not even respond nor help others find their way when asked for directions. That is indeed rude to a certain extent. However, if one bothers to say politely, "Bonjour Madame, I would greatly appreciated it if…", then they will answer very thoughtfully with a big smile. Whatever we do we must start off with a courteous greeting whereupon a human connection will be formed and a conversation can take place with so much comfort. If someone approached without any kind of salutation then how can a person feel safe, for all that matters, the stranger might be a bad person.
In France, except for a few, there is no nationalism. They always put the individual before the whole group. In a place where many individual ideas are exchanged it is important to respect one another. That is why "thank you" are said from both sides when someone purchases something. Like good day, hello, good night, good evening, and bon voyage, there are countless ways one can greet one another if one tries to think enough about it.
While I was learning cooking as an apprentice at a restaurant, I went to a language school. One day I overslept and could not arrive to class on time. Because of my tardy, I was scolded. The teacher had told me "to think of others". Tardiness is an individual's problem but it becomes everyone's problem when the individual's appearance is needed to make the whole function. By broadening one's views from that of himself to others, one can build a firm relationship with others.
In France, at the age of sixteen, teenagers must decide on their future and attend a professional trade school, learn of the needed skills and gain experience as an intern at different work places. Even at the top class restaurants one can encounter young interns. Although they have young faces, they straighten their back and work very diligently with a very tidy manner. Their movements do show a bit of inexperience but because it is obvious that they are being extremely cautious not to fail, the customers are actually left with a favorable impression. Like when they bring out a plate that is too hot to bring with bare hands and must be brought with a napkin, the customers become very empathetic.
Their service is top class, very compassionate, cheerful, and amicable, never making the customers disappointed nor feeling ill treated. When I tried to enter the Hotel Ricci at Place Vin dome, I was disallowed by a large porter in suits. Normally I would be irritated at the refusal of my entrance, but his polite words and very straightforward disposition was nothing to disappoint me but rather satisfied me, although that is not the usual reaction to get after such rejection.
Not necessarily at prominent restaurants, but even at cafes inside a big train station, the attitude the waiters and waitresses keep is no different; working assiduously and treating the customers impartially. When a customer unknowingly cuts in the line, the worker will politely guide him in the right direction while attending on a customer. Their committing attitude toward work is not from professionalism only but also from knowing the best way to work with people and enjoy life.
French people are taught universal beauty early on from their childhood. Not only are they taught not to make others feel discontented but how to appear charming and graceful. Children learn to pose in front of the camera, boys adopt a way to appear attractive without any superciliousness and girls learn to present themselves on special occasions by combing their hair and putting on a little bit of make up. Therefore, by the time they reach adolescence they have developed quite a skill in presenting themselves. Until recently students in Japan did not put on make up until they were working adults. Having a late start means it takes longer to obtain a developed skill. The more one tries to appear decent at a older age the more one is betrayed by its results.
●According to writer Sefa Hong(the author of Korean Driver Does Not Sleep In Paris, *a direct traslation from the Japanese title), the foundation for France's numerous charms is "tolerance" that exists in French society. "One must respect others' freedom of speech on religious and political matters and freedom act upon their own thoughts".
Respect others and let others respect you. (Respectez, et faites respecter.)
These are the words written on a sign placed near the field in the park.
It is synonymous with "Do Not Enter", but it is implying "Respect the green grass if you would like to be respected". This is the spirit of "tolerance". Politicians, workers, farmers, fisherman, students, men of culture and all the other people of different social classes must respect each other and they themselves in turn must possess pride and values on their jobs.
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